Three days in Lisbon
Lisbon is a city of hills. Whatever you plan, assume it will take twice as long because you will be walking up or down a steep street most of the time. That said, every climb seems to end with a viewpoint.
Day one: Alfama
I started in Alfama, the oldest neighbourhood, getting lost on purpose in the narrow lanes. The castle at the top is a bit touristy, but the view over the river is worth the ticket. In the evening I found a tiny place with live fado — no menu, just whatever the owner was cooking that day.
Day two: Belém
Tram 15 takes you to Belém in about twenty minutes. The monastery is huge and beautiful, and yes, the famous custard tarts deserve the queue. I ate three. Then I walked back along the river, which took most of the afternoon.
Tip: buy a rechargeable transport card on the first day; it works on trams, buses, the metro and the ferries.
Day three: across the river
On the last day I took the ferry to Cacilhas for lunch and the view of the city from the other side. It is cheap, quick and much calmer than the centre. A good way to end a busy trip.